Saturday 15 September – Monuments, markets and men behaving badly.

After a leisurely breakfast we headed off for a day of exploring Vilnius, past the 1597 university and many of the thirty churches that adorn this city. We stopped at St Anne’s and the adjoining St Bernadine’s, survivors of five hundred years of conquests by their Livonian neighbours (now Estonia and Latvia), the Swedes, the Poles, the Russians, the Germans and most recently the Soviet Russians. We walked on to view the Three Crosses on the Hill, dating back to the sixteenth century, in memory it is said of seven 14^th century monks who were beheaded on this hill.  The crosses were originally wooden but needed regular replacement as they rotted, so were replaced by concrete crosses in 1916.  These were destroyed by the Soviets during their occupation and only replaced in 1988.  They have always been seen as a symbol of the city.

Next we visited the enormous Roman Cathedral Basilica of St Stanislaus and St Ladislaus.  It is believed that originally it was the site of pagan worship, then a Christian church for a dozen years from 1251, then more pagan worship then, in 1387 when Lithuania officially adopted Christianity, construction began on a second Christian cathedral, however it burned down in 1419, was rebuilt in 1429 and over the ensuing centuries has been expanded and modified, has survived partial collapses, and been used as a warehouse during the Soviet regime.  Although somewhat plain and austere, it is an overpowering building, with huge statues on either side and above its entrance, it has a beautiful vaulted ceiling and is adorned with more than forty works of art, including frescoes and huge paintings dating from the 16^th to the 19^th century, and a 14^th century fresco has been found in one of the underground chapels.

Next door was the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, now under reconstruction and therefore inaccessible but in normal times used as multi-function museum and event venue.  We viewed the Gediminas Tower, sitting atop a nearby hill, but were unable to access it (although we have now learnt that we might be able to get up there tomorrow – watch this space).   We then paused for elevenses, then wandered along Gediminas Street through a street market – stalls that seem to go on forever, selling food, craft beers, craft goods, clothing – all sorts of things.  Half way along we encountered a stage set up in an adjacent square and paused to watch a dazzling display of traditional dancing by young dancers.  All in all this whole area emitted a wonderful festive atmosphere.  We were there enjoying the stalls and the atmosphere for so long – and the aromas emanating from the food stalls were so enticing – that we decided it was time for lunch and dined on an array of local foods.

We continued on and found Pilies Street, the oldest and most flamboyant street in Vilnius, now flanked by restaurants and market stalls.  In bygone days kings, papal legates and envoys from other countries passed along this street on the way to the castle.

At this stage the boys somehow became separated from the girls and, rather than fret, found a local restaurant that served the best of the local beer, icy cold.  Unfortunately it was on the route that the girls took back to the apartment, where they would no doubt wail and beat their temples with their fists over the separation from their men.  So, said men were well and truly sprung! But the local beer was icy cold – and very moreish.  

And the men were forgiven.

Another wonderful day.